Cruise to St Martin and St Barths, 2004

My God! What a beautiful sunrise this morning! It is shaping up to be another beautiful day here in the Caribbean. The Trades are gently blowing and keeping the air temperatures cool and fresh. The beginning has always been my favorite time of the day. It is my routine each morning to enjoy a fresh, hot cup of Puerto Rican coffee out in the cockpit. None of that decaffeinated nonsense, this stuff will put hair on your saddlebags.
It has been a little over a week since I delivered my friend Tony to the airport and have been back in Puerto Rico working on my boat installing my RO water maker and 125 W solar panel. Figuring where to install the stuff is kinda limited and I had to relocate some pumps and plumbing to fit in the water maker. The solar panel will require me to make some modifications to my bimini cover with reinforcing it to support the new weight in all kind of conditions. I am now waiting on the parts needed to finish the work and VOILA! I am self sufficient, manufacturing my own fresh water and electricity using sun and solar. But , in emergencies, i.e. no sun or wind, I have a honda generator onboard.
For sailing here among the islands I have found keeping a week’s supplies on board is adequate as there are plenty of small open markets along the way that makes re-supply easy and fun. My 9.9 hp outboard is really performing well bringing the boat to a plane in many of the anchorages and never failed to start.. Tony and I had almost as much fun going exploring by dinghy as we did being under sail, under crystal clear skies filled with all manner of clouds making 8 knots, well almost. The biggest problem at present is getting the outboard back and forth from it’s storage rack on the boat and on the dinghy. Imagine loading a swinging 85 lb outboard on a boat that is rocking up and down, back and forth down to a dinghy that is doing the same thing, most of the time totally out of sync with the boat. Remember it is an expensive thing that is covered with all manner of swivels and breakable things and can be seriously damaged if it dips into sea water, which is usually 30 ft deep. Though I must add the water is crystal clear making it easily found. Those of you who have enjoyed this experience with me know exactly what I am describing. Now do it all in reverse when stowing it and the dinghy up in it’s davits. It makes a huge difference not towing the dinghy behind me for long passages where it can make a difference of a knot or more in speed. I tow it if the passage is going to be a short one, such as sailing around the Virgins, which are short ½ day sails usually.
It was a very hectic week before my guests arrived from Europe trying to get CHOICES back in the water and ready for their arrival as well as our planned cruise. To help aclimate them to the climate and time zone, we went up into the rainforest the day following their arrival where we went swimming under a tall waterfall. It is a favorite spot of mine, full of cascading water falls among large boulders, deep in the rainforest, deep, fresh, cool, clear water under the thick green forest canopy. Those of you who have been there with me know exactly where I am writing about.
That afternoon we went shopping for provisions and planned our suggested route. I say suggested because when cruising, weather and all kinds of other factors may require a change in venue. If there is one thing you learn while sailing it is to be flexible and adjust, the ocean is a constantly changing environment, never the same from one day to the next.
The next morning, under clear skies, we departed and made way to our first stop in a small bay, below the lighthouse on the small uninhabited island of Culbrita, located in the Spanish Virgins. We swam ashore and went walking along a deserted beach, as we were the only ones there, to a natural Jacuzzi located in among large boulders. It is identified on the charts as Montecito Primero. The water was crystal clear, warm and fed by the sea breaking over the rocks. Because it is relatively unknown it is what the Caribbean used to be, wild and empty. It is a wildlife preserve meaning it is uninhabited and totally devoid of any trace of man, except for an unmanned lighthouse, there are not any traces of roads either, not even a power pole. It is only a ½ day sail, under the right conditions, distance from the marina, making it an easily reached and empty anchorage, or if preferred, free mooring balls . For my friends who may be interested it is Lat 18 19.253N long 65 13.771W . The route followed close along the south shore of Culebra, past the reef I went aground on, When seen in daylight I could see how close I came to making it that night, didn’t miss by much. Won’t do it again.
The next morning we sailed past the north side of St. Thomas to Caneel Bay on St John in the USVI’s. We launched the dinghy and went into Cruz Bay where we had dinner at Uncle Joe’s, a small shack that has some of the best BBQ in the islands and later, after eating, bought a few more provisions. The next morning we let go the mooring and headed East, through the British Virgin Islands following Sir Francis Drake Channel, passing between Virgin Gorda and Ginger islands into open waters at sunset. That night the seas began building, driven by lightning storms which were lighting up the dark skies all around us. While Tony had the watch the boat was struck by lightning, and luck was on our side as no damage resulted. The next morning we made our way to our landfall St. Martin/San Maarten, which is in the French/Dutch West Indies. It is the only island in the Caribbean which is ruled by to two different governments. We made our way into Simpson Bay on the Dutch side, by way of a narrow channel, where we anchored and checked in. That afternoon we refueled, and though we had spent much of last night running the diesel against the head winds and had only burned 11 gals of fuel since my last fueling last Spring. After trying to catch up on our sleep lost on the previous night’s passage we took the dinghy across the lagoon to the French side. The French and Dutch West Indies is an example of how the Caribbean could be. They drive a lot smaller cars in general, but follow the island pattern of driving at very high speeds, then stopping in the middle of the road when they see their neighbor.
We enjoyed walking among the colonial style buildings and sidewalk cafes where we enjoyed a great meal, the first of many over the next week. Our biggest problem was translating, when doing so we had a habit of slipping into Spanish, when answering their questions spoken to us in French. No wonder they hate you Americans.
The main impression I walked away with from these islands is the sense of style and enjoyment of living that the French enjoy. When we checked into French customs in Gustav harbor on St Barth’s we found the officers could teach our own U.S. Customs and Homeland Security officers a lesson in manners and courtesy, especially on St John. I must exclude the Customs officers in Fajardo, here on Puerto Rico, who go out of their way to make your visit with them as painless as possible. Of course the first French officer I checked in with instantly recognized my last name as French. For all of you who may have wondered, all the French I met pronounced Benoit as Ben-wa, not Ben-oit or Be-know-it, etc.
Our next passage took us to St Barth’s another French island, located about 15 miles south. As in St Martin we enjoyed some awesome food and the island has some excellent restaurants. The weather forecast for the next week called for heavy seas and winds driven by a high front to the north which would mean an exciting passage back to Puerto Rico. The first of the excitement started when we untied from the mooring buoys in the small, crowded harbor. The winds had already picked up and when Tony pushed the engine control handle at the helm forward the engine failed to shift from reverse to forward, instead it just slipped into neutral and refused to respond leaving us now drifting towards the other boats in the harbor with no way to maneuver. Because we had fortunately decided to tow the dinghy back to St Martin we were able to quickly jump in it and tie unto a mooring buoy with some stern lines. Having passed within a few feet of some boats, heading towards some quays out of control can certainly be exciting. Tied securely in place we discovered the throttle cable had broken due to fatigue over time. Luckily a small ship chandlery had a new cable and once replaced we were able to get underway again, this time not quite so exciting. We returned to St Martin, our route following the island’s north shore through Anguilla channel where we anchored in a small bay sheltered under Pt Basse Terr for the night before going around the corner to Marigot, the French capitol, the next morning. That evening we departed on the first return leg back to Puerto Rico. The seas had really turned steep, driven by the forecasted winds when the autohelm decided to fail. The thought of spending the entire night in heavy seas at the wheel was not very appealing. Going below I found the motor drive working properly which met the problem was under the helm locker, which was full of stuff and would have to be cleared out in less than favorable conditions. Sure enough the drive unit had detached from the steering shaft of the rudder. Trying to describe crawling head first down into the locker on a boat that is making way heeled over in heavy seas would not be nearly as difficult as doing the actual task itself. Using seizing wire we were able to secure the drive unit back to the rudder and free ourselves from spending the night at the wheel. The biggest problem we encountered was sailing too fast, meaning we would be making landfall before sunrise, requiring us to bear off and wait till we had enough light. I get real itchy when nearing any landmasses, no matter how sure I am of my position in the dark. Even with the sails reduced we were consistently doing 8 ½ kts to 9 kts which is fast for a sailboat. That night on watch we saw at least 8 massive cruise ships, like bright cities in the distance, a line of them stretching from horizon to horizon, like some massive train. Bet none of them were having near as much fun as we were. The next morning, just after daybreak, just before sunrise we made the narrow passage between Virgin Gorda and Ginger island. We were unable to go ashore at The Baths due to a storm surge along it shores. So we decided to continue on and that night we dropped anchor in Great Bay of the island of Yost Van Dyke in the BVI's. We visited a small beachfront bar called the "Soggy Dollar" which is well known around here by the locals and enjoyed dinner ashore. The next morning we took the short sail back to St John, where we had to check back in with U.S. customs and once again tied up off Caneel Bay, where we enjoyed dinner on shore in the Caneel Bay resort. The next day we made our way to Charlotte Amalie where we anchored and spent the evening visiting with old friends at Bottoms-Up bar in Benner Bay. The following day found us in Ensenada Honda on Culebra. We spent a couple of days on the island where we enjoyed hiking around the island before heading back to Marina Puerto del Rey. It is my plan to return and spend some time there, anchored, as the village can provide me with everything I could need, including a great little waterfront saloon called the “Dinghy Dock” where you tie up your dinghy and enjoy the entertainment. One evening a bunch of Brits at the bar started singing. The best part was the great knowledge Tony was sharing with me. He showed me where the rocks were or of currents to be avoided, the best approaches and general local information. I learned a lot of valuable information as well as some great sailing in the company of a close friend and knowledgeable sailor to some very beautiful landfalls. We shared many laughs, great meals and rare time in the wild, with nature giving a small glimpse of it’s strength and beauty. That very few will ever have the opportunity to see, and among them fewer yet who do it.
The day after Tony’s departure was Thanksgiving. I received an invitation to enjoy dinner with them and friends up in the rainforest on an open deck with a view of the Caribbean and the Spanish Virgins off in the distance surrounded by trees covered in wild orchids. I had dinner a couple of days ago and spent the night there as none of thought it wise to drive. The next day I gave Jaymee some help with her computer and installed the lighting to her small booth at a gallery she is setting up. I will be house sitting and dog sitting for them while they are back in Denmark visiting her husband Pelle’s family. I have run of the house, use of their truck and his full workshop. I should be able to get a great many projects started and completed, or at least the parts made for installation later. She has a full studio overlooking the forest and hills across the valley and views of the ocean from where the sun rises each morning. I will also have use of their vehicle to get any materials I will need.
I have my sea legs back, things are healing, and as you have read, the boat is keeping me busy.
Hope this e-mail has found you in good health and doing what you love,
Marv

From Fajardo, Puerto Rico, Fall 2004

Hi Everyone
Well I have only been back on the boat, back in the water for one week today and I am already a mass of bruises, abrasions, stiff joints and sore muscles, which is normal for the first month or so getting back into life on the water. At least I haven’t fallen overboard and gone for an unexpected swim yet as I have done before. It is still kinda warm and very humid which will take a few weeks to adjust to but my skin loves it and I have a healthy glow about me, or is that the pulsing sunburn I am suffering? I arrived on Puerto Rico and spent the first couple of nights with friends at their house up in the rainforest. Anyone who has spent the night in the rainforest can confirm that it has to be noisier than Times Square on New Year’s Eve. Millions upon millions of horny animals were loudly trying to get the attention of a romantic partner for the night. I guess you could describe it as Nature’s singles club.
I spent a day getting the boat ready for launching, the keel needed some touch up and I applied a fresh coat of bottom paint to it. My diesel wouldn’t kick over, of course, which I discovered after it was back in the water. Although I had left my batteries on a solar panel and the wind generator to keep them charged while I was in the States, they were too discharged to turn over the engine. Although I am going through the normal, painful period of adjusting to life aboard at present, it feels absolutely wonderful feeling the deck move under me once again. Bringing the boat to her slip (I am in the slip next to where I was last season) renewed my energy and I could feel the horizons and the many islands beyond calling. There is no possible way I will be able to finish all my boat improvement projects before my friends arrive this Thursday from Europe for 3 weeks of sailing, but I have managed to get her in good sailing order. I am now working on some ideas for their visits as far as an itinerary goes. I will leave them the option as to deciding where they would like to make landfall. I would like to sail to St Kitts and St Martin, depends on the weather and them.
I was reading in my Cruising World magazine, it‘s 30th anniversary issue, with much interest. I read an article about the Caribbean and know many of the characters the author was talking about. He even talked about the French Pirate Queen, who used to come to my boat and cut my hair, one time doing it after having had way too much to drink (her). It was an interesting cut. According to the article she is well known for not allowing any guests aboard her boat to wear clothing, and no I have never been one of her guests. It seems I know a lot of very “colorful waterfront characters“, to me they were just someone interesting to share a drink with, didn‘t know I was hanging around with such famous people, or so the magazine article I read would have those farmers who’s dream it is to be doing what I am doing, and reading the magazine from their den in Iowa, or some other god forsaken place believe. Who knows, maybe if I continue my downward spiral to corruption I may be written about in a similar article, but not if I have to take off my clothes. I will definitely be cruising through St Thomas and St John next week visiting some of them. Anyways, just wanted to write and say hi, and managed to go on and on…
Love Marv

Flogging Skipper or What to expect on your first cruise in the islands

Hi Guys....In response to your many questions I have taken it upon myself to help you in your planned vacation down to the islands... Being your first time down and aboard I thought I would go into some details concerning a sailing vacation......As far as the weather is concerned you can expect temperatures to soar to the early 90's during the daytime and plummet to 78 after sunset....lots of sun block and hats are almost mandatory....a hat with a wide brim, though they look really cool, are also recommended....try not to embarrass me in front of my friends with your sense of style....I keep a complete set of towels onboard and more can be easily obtained if needed....I may need the room they would take up in your luggage to bring in contraband.....You may or may not, it depends upon circumstances and the person involved be subjected to a thorough search before coming aboard, so try to keep that in mind.....remember Mi Boata es su Boata! but that doesn't mean I am going to slave hand and foot getting you this and getting you that....Now for those of you that have never spent time on a sailboat a few things you should know.....When under way, when the wind is crossing our course from a certain angle and dependant upon that angle and the velocity of the wind a certain amount of heeling will result....Heeling is when a boat begins to lean to one side or the other, seldom reaching more than 45 degrees.....This is normal and sailboats are designed for this....It is just a requirement if we are to ever reach our destination within a reasonable time and is nothing I can do anything about….So keep this in mind when setting down half full drinks....or putting something on a shelf......I only discuss this for anyone with little or no experience with sailing.....
It will be very warm on deck during the daytime, there is nothing I can do about it so don't ask.....I usually suggest a plunge off the swim step....although the water is usually only a few degrees cooler than the air temp, it is refreshing....it is also very salty which is something else I can't do anything about, so don't ask.....We will be doing our primary sailing and passage making in the morning with land insight at all times, in fact most of our sailing will be within a short swim of the shore so the first time you decide to give the skipper some lip you might think about that....After the tragedy of Christmas, 2002, I will not be sailing after dark....We don't need to discuss that same tragedy nor is it necessary to use it in any arguments that may or may not, at times arise over this or that remark you may take as more of a command than as a request.... If you have something, and this includes body parts that you do not want the world to see you can forget it.....it doesn't exist on boats although you can sleep in privacy in your own quarters....it's the door marked Storage/Crew....and the boat has two bathrooms with showers which will from now on be known as heads..... you will have very little privacy which once again is something I can do nothing about so don't ask....The heads operate by simply moving a lever and hand pumping the bowel clean, then returning the switch to it's original position and pumping it dry....Water does not grow on trees! Use the fresh water sparingly! ..
When first boarding I will acquaint you with the parts of the boat and the proper nautical terms…The bathrooms as I said earlier are known as heads, the front of the boat is the bow, not the pointy part, the mast is not the tall stick that the sails hang from, the galley is not the kitchen, the big pillow, bumper things are known as fenders, but more about this subject when you come aboard…
Boats move, they rock back and forth and from side to side, as well as up and down, in all kinds of directions....depends on the sea conditions, the wind directions and how big a passing boat's wake is, again all things I cannot do anything about.... Pack light....mostly swimsuits and something to show respect to the locals when going to the market and walking around their towns, as well as going to the restaurant kind of change of cloths....the material should be something that dries quickly as you will get wet from time to time….depending on the guest onboard clingy, tight clothing is allowed, but must be approved by the skipper first….shoes should consist of sandals and flip flops....Nothing with black soles they mark up the decks.....
I'm not a flogging Captain, but can be forced to when petty offenses warrant them or they are just begging for it....one can't flinch from his duty when confronted with the difficult crew member....God help you if I hear as much as one little whine....Think about sun, beaches, and ugly little islands filled with human waste, social outsiders, too much booze, great music, unfriendly locals, great food, frizzy hair, sweaty, hot humid days swatting at no see ums, fighting mosquitoes and ugly lizards, well maybe not so ugly when you really think about it.....remember one thing and one thing well, I rule my deck with a very keen eye and won't be corrected or allowed to suffer any kind of insolence such as this or that was my fault kind of thing, and maybe and only maybe might I not have to suffer my disappointment and thus once again with a flogging attended at the mast....a scene which can easily become all to common as has been my experience.....I am getting back into my skipper with too much free time on his hands at times, sometimes finds himself in "situations" kinda frame of mind because he didn't display the right kind of, some would say, maybe not the best judgment at times, but to be totally frank, I believe it is rooted in under disciplined, surely, ungrateful crew....
I have over 500 albums as well as dozens of movies onboard.....if you can't find something to entertain yourself try reading something.....but bring your own as I don't keep books onboard....they weigh too much and are a source for disease.....don't expect the skipper to build a complete itinerary around your visit....nor will I be putting on a Bozo the Clown rubber nose and entertain you if you get bored.....Feel free to bring along any past times you may wish to bring such as needle point, rug weaving, coloring books etc.... There is plenty to do and we won't possibly be able to do them all in the time you will be down, something else I can't do anything about.....And one last word to ponder, "Bug Repellant".....okay make that 2....
Welcome aboard!
Marv
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