Hi….Well I finally made it back down to the islands where I am sitting amongst the chaos that is my boat…chaos because I have been getting her back into sailing order after her repairs in the yard and long storage this summer…I splashed her two days after my arrival and it has been one thing after another, but the list is getting shorter as my bank account is getting leaner, but I see light at the end of the old proverbial tunnel…my prediction that I would be bruised, battered and sore all over as I adjusted to life back on the water has been surpassed…the rain has finally let up as the late tropical storm has passed and the weather is turning very nice…Of course the diesel starter that was fixed temporarily at best has gone out and my guests and I are awaiting a new starter to arrive from the States…
My visit with Tony and Sandra in England surpassed my greatest expectations…they are the most congenial of hosts and made it a very memorable trip. They live in the northern part of England near the Lake District in Penrith about an hours train ride south of Edinburough…their home is 160 years old, situated in the countryside…it is one of the newer houses in their village as many of their neighbors homes date back to the Elizabethan Period or about 450 years old…their home is next to a small church, St Cuthbert’s which is over a thousand years old and still has Sunday services….the thing that struck me the most was how history surrounded me everyplace I visited…Most of my time there I was in sensory overload….
Upon my arrival in Manchester, we immediately had me fitted for a dinner jacket that I would be needing for our dinner at the Lord Mayor of London’s residence known as the Mansion House…None of Tony’s dinner shirts fit me so Sandra and I went into Penrith where I purchased one from a haberdashery that is located below the home where the English poet Wordsworth’s grandparents lived…the shop has been in the same location since 1749! My first experience with a true English Pub took place on our drive back to their home in Penrith on the day of my arrival….I love the pubs and are just another part of their culture that I wish existed in the States. This one has been a pub for about 500 years and is located on an old carriage route that no longer exists….Tony and Sandra’s home has been beautifully restored by them and I enjoyed very comfortable accommodations while visiting them…Across the small road that passes through the old stone gates that provided access to the Squires’ estate when it still existed, is an old Celtic Cross, some 1500 years old…
I won’t attempt to describe all that I saw while in England, there are travel writers who can do a much better job than I…instead I would like to share some of the highlights of my visit….I was introduced to many very nice people and made to feel very welcome…For the most part everyone I met were mostly interested in my impressions of their country, something they are all very proud of…and is reflected on how well everything is kept…the food for the most part was nothing like I imagined, as I had always heard how bad English cuisine was…and I enjoyed many wonderful meals in Pubs and as a guest of many friends of Tony and Sandra’s…I must say the experience left me wanting to pack up my painting supplies and try to put on canvas many of the beautiful sights I was surrounded by…While in England we traveled by train to Edinburough, Scotland, walking about the city enjoying the sights, drove through the beautiful Lake District, visited many small villages, enjoyed lunch in the great room of a castle built in 900 A.D., walked along Hadrian’s Wall, visited a small pub and went on a tour of the micro brewery that was located in back, went for a walk through the mountains, but most importantly, met many very nice people who always treated me with the utmost politeness…The opportunity to see this countryside for my first time as very few tourists, will be an experience I shall never forget…
From England Tony and I flew to Spain where we hired a car and drove south to Gibralter…We spent several days sightseeing on the “island” as it is still called, even though it is connected to the mainland of Spain by a causeway that has been built upon which a runway has been built…Possession of Gibralter by Britain for the past 450 years has been a problem for the Spanish Government and crossing back and forth across the border was always slow…From Gibralter Tony and I drove down to Tarifa, Spain where we took a ferry across to Tangers, Morocco…We spent the day walking through the famous Casbah’s alleyways and markets…Again I was treated very well wherever I went…although it is a Islamic country, their king is a very forward looking, modern man and though many of the old traditions are still in evidence, there exists a modern cosmopolitan look and feel to the city…
Leaving Gibralter, we drove north along the Spanish Mediterranean coast, which is under heavy development for the large numbers of German, French and English who are moving there in large numbers. We spent one day visiting the old Moorish Palace of Alhambra in the ancient city of Grenada, a must see for anyone contemplating a tour of the country…Driving north through the Sierra Nevada mountains I was again surprised as I was surrounded by a sparsely inhabited countryside, much like the State of Nevada…Large vistas with very few towns or villages…the most intriguing for me was all the homes that were caves, cut into the soft stone with facades covering the them…We saw them everywhere…The Moors occupied Spain for many centuries and their castles can be found everywhere…Unfortunately the weather did not cooperate and we were unable to do any sailing due to gales coming off the Mediterranean so we stayed at Tony’s home in Spain and drove through the countryside visiting even more old churches and castles…I wasn’t very disappointed to be honest with you as I can go sailing anytime…
Flying back to England I was to be treated to what Tony described as the best part of my visit, London was that and more…Our first night the weather cooperated and we enjoyed walking through Westminster, near a hotel we were staying at…We saw Whitehall, # 10 Downing Street, Picadilly Circus, Soho, Trafalgar Square, walked along the Thames across from the Parliament and Big Ben (which is actually not the tower, but the bell inside), and enjoyed some great Indian Cuisine…After that first night it started raining and continued throughout the rest of our time there…The following day we went to St Paul’s and a play as well as Harrod’s where I did some of my Christmas shopping…The next day we went to The Tower of London and Tower bridge…That evening we went to an organ recital at Westminster Abbey, sitting in the front pews where the royal family sits entering through the Queen’s door…Every monarch since William the Conqueror has been coroneted in this place and it is filled with the tombs of many of them…
The next day was to be an experience I shall never forget, nor will I be inclined for many years to let anyone else forget…my dinner banquet at the Lord Mayor’s…Tony is a member of one of the many guilds that defined London in it’s early development…These guilds still exist for boat building, goldsmith, carpenters, and the Baker’s guild of which Tony is a member, as well as countless others…they were brought into existence as a method of providing a standard, much like our Bureau of Standards…it was a member of the Baker’s Guild, it is generally thought, who started the great London Fire while King Charles II was ruler, in 1652, and a large monument was erected at the spot it started…
Dressed in black tie and dinner jacket we first went to religious services at All Hallows Church next to The Tower…the church is over a thousand years old and the burial sight for many famous people from England’s history, such as Thomas More, Penn, the man who founded Pennsylvania and was the church that John Quincy Adams, 6th president of the United States got married in 1794.…during recent excavations many headless remains were also uncovered, remains from the Tower’s bloody past….From here we went to Mansion House, me in the company of three retired English Majors of the Royal Army…there had been some confusion of Douglas’ part as to my first name as we had only met once before in St Thomas where we had shared a great meal…Douglas is a master Chef and once cooked for the Queen Mother…After our Champagne reception, dinner was announced…As each of us passed through the double doors into the large dinning hall we were each announced with the rapping on the floor of a large staff crowned with the coat of arms of the Lord Mayor’s office by a gentleman dressed in clothing from the 1700’s…as another read out our names…when I walked through the door I was announced as “Mr. MELVIN Benoit” then I proceeded in line where I was introduced to the Lord Mayor and several Aldermen of London.
The food was only okay with a different wine being served at each course, followed with brandy at the end…During dinner, as we drank more wine our conversations became more enlivened…my dinner partner, sitting on my right was a Professor of Genetics at London University…he was in the audience when the discovery of DNA was announced and was a personal friend of the researches who had made the discovery…Didn’t matter, with enough wine in us by now, our conversation became even more lively…Across from me was a young man from Ireland who I spent much of the evening with…He owns a castle in Ireland and told me anytime I was in Ireland I must look him up…At the end of dinner and the speeches we performed the “Loving Cup Ceremony” in which a silver chalice, filled with more brandy is passed from one man to the next, each in turn wiping the lip of the chalice after taking a drink, turning around and passing the cup to the next man, who is standing back to back with you, as protection from times past…after so much wine I almost got it right…that night we drove back to Douglas’ home for more drinking…he is Scottish so I need not tell you what we finished the night imbibing…I woke up with one of the worst hangovers I have suffered in many a long while…The following day I flew back to the States where I enjoyed a weeks’ visit with my daughter’s for Thanksgiving holidays, before flying back down to Puerto Rico…
I was reflecting the first night on my boat, when she was back in the water while I was eating some cold baked beans straight out of the can, in the dark as I still hadn’t gotten the lights working yet, what wonderful extremes I live and what a lucky man I am to have the opportunity to see so much, but most importantly, to have met so many interesting people and to have made so many wonderful friends such as you….
Happy Holidays and God Bless,
Melvin
Friday, November 07, 2003
Thursday, March 07, 2002
While CHOICES was undergoing repairs
I made into St Thomas on Friday afternoon after taking 3 flights with layovers in Ft Lauderdale and San Juan. I left at 10:50 AM Thursday night, arriving at Charlotte Amalie about 12:15 PM the next day. Needless to say I didn’t get a lot of sleep and with the time change, I was kinda tired. The air temperature was about 85 degrees with light trade winds blowing, just another beautiful day in paradise. Tom picked me up at the airport and I will be staying with him while on St Thomas. We stopped at the “Hook and Sinker” a small restaurant on the harbor for lunch. After unloading my gear at his boat and taking a moment to enjoy some “refreshments” we staggered over to “Bottoms Up” for some cocktails. It was great hooking up with many of the people I have made friends with in my time down here and had a great time. We crawled back along the dock, keeping low to avoid the 12 foot long iguanas, lurking all around us, waiting for their chance to spring out of the mangroves and attack us. I leave for Puerto Rico in a couple of weeks, where I plan to spend a couple of days inspecting the repairs to the boat. Tom has been the perfect host, he even brought out his humidor full of good Cuban cigars that he keeps for special occasions. He even went so far as to brew up some Cappuccino for us Sunday morning, complete with steam frothed milk. Last night we enjoyed PBS television as that is the only station he can get aboard his boat. Colonel Bob , who is the dock master here at Independent Boatyard told me I was at the top of their list when I was ready to bring my boat back this next Fall, after hurricane season. I have been eating some great meals. Monday night I prepared a salmon romalade stuffed with lobster, accompanied with a white wine sauce made with roasted garlic and portabella mushrooms. On the side I fixed baby potatoes. Tom seemed to enjoy the meal and afterwards we drank snifters of cognac. Yes it is a sailor’s life for me. We had a lot of rain Monday night. Unfortunately we left the forward hatch open and my suitcase was right under it. I now have clothes hanging in the main cabin drying out. The dinghy was also full of water so I bailed that out this morning and used it to “drive” Tom to his shop across the lagoon.
I spoke to the shipwright who is doing the repairs on my boat yesterday. He informed me he hadn’t started on the rudder yet. They were getting ready to drop the keel (6000 lbs) so they can re-bed it and replace the bolts. While at the boat I will be off-loading some things and shipping them back up to the States. During my planning stages of moving on a boat I included things that I never used and decided to put them in storage as space is limited .
On Thursday, Tom and I worked on an auto helm into a Beneteau Idlyllic 35. It is going to be a very difficult job and we have finally come upon a way of installing it. Our work was cut short by the heavy rains that fell today. This of course required the bailing of Tom’s dinghy which had filled with rainwater to the gunwales (pronounced gunnels). We had to go back to his shop where the rain really started coming down. We spent the afternoon at “Bottoms Up” while it rained very hard. The bar is open to the lagoon and it was really noisy with lightening all around us. We are hoping to be able to return to the boat tomorrow and continue with the installation. Of course Tom’s boat is not as watertight as it could be and once again I have my clothes hanging around the main cabin drying. I noticed Tina, who owns “Bottoms Up”, was out in the lagoon trying to get the plug to her dinghy out so that it would drain. I waded out into the lagoon with an umbrella and covered her with it while I worked the stuck plug loose. I then waded back ashore under the umbrella with her. It was at this point that I informed her that her dress was somewhat soaked and the air chilly and she should keep that in mind when she transited the bar. She informed me as she walked away not to look at her ass. I swear to God I didn’t watch her ass as she walked away. I am really glad that I invested the money to be able to more easily get on line. I am writing this e-mail from my laptop sitting in the main saloon as it rains outside. I can attach my laptop to my cell phone and go on line. It is really cool being in a lagoon, on a boat, accessing the internet.
I finally finished installing the auto helm, giving Tom time to catch up with his work. His mother is very ill and he must fly back to the States, which requires him to finish up any pending jobs so he can leave. The days I spent working on the boat were somewhat uncomfortable. The boat is on a mooring in the lagoon meaning she could only be reached by dinghy. The days were very hot, little breeze with rain developing into high humidity. The air was so thick you could see bubbles in it. Most of the time was spent in very tight quarters below decks, or working at some very odd angles topsides in the cockpit. What made it worse was all the food I ate while in the States, but it is finally completed and works great. On Friday I went with Tom up on the North shore to a home high above Megan’s Bay. The road is one which twists back and forth following the steep hillside’s contours. It is owned by a lady from Ireland who lives in Connecticut and works in New York. Megan’s Bay located about a quarter mile below fills the lower horizon. I watched a sailboat passing over a white sandy bottom, clearly visible from our heights. Casting a shadow onto the white sandy bottom, coupled with the incredible clarity of the water gave the boat the illusion it was slowly floating above the ground. From the back deck, surrounded by rain forest is a view of the Windward Passage with the British Virgins in the distance. While watching the weather develop with rain over the Atlantic I spotted a waterspout in the distance with a dark funnel cloud disappearing into the base of an enormous thunderhead. I pointed it out to the other guys that were working on the rear deck. From the way the surface of the ocean was being ripped apart my thoughts naturally began to try imagining what it would be like aboard a boat in that. The houses location and view would be a great place to do a painting, very quiet. and of course, nothing being perfect, infested with mosquitoes which are a result of all the rain that has been falling the past week.
I have am now in Florida having a great time with my daughters. We all had dinner last night at Chrissy’s restaurant in Orlando and I will be driving back up tomorrow for a visit before flying back out to California on Tuesday. At least that is the plan at this point, but like most plans in my life subject to change and revision.
I must say I was very impressed with the workmanship that was used on my boat’s repairs. The boat looks great, maybe even better than before. The boatyard has been very helpful in making arrangements for the boats storage while on the hard this Summer. In addition to the repairs needed from the grounding I also had a thru-hull for the forward head’s discharge replaced. It seems the bronze valve was couple to the hose using a galvanized pipe fitting, normally used in houses. This fitting, couple to the bronze with exposure to saltwater caused the whole valve to corrode due to electrolysis. In addition I had the cutlass bearing replaced (this attaches the propeller shaft to the transmission. It is best to get all this done now as eventually they could cause some major problems. For those of you that have been aboard, you cannot believe how much the main saloon has been opened up with the removal of the table. It is big enough to dance in and is something I should have done long ago.
My best to you all, I will call when I get to California,
Marv
I spoke to the shipwright who is doing the repairs on my boat yesterday. He informed me he hadn’t started on the rudder yet. They were getting ready to drop the keel (6000 lbs) so they can re-bed it and replace the bolts. While at the boat I will be off-loading some things and shipping them back up to the States. During my planning stages of moving on a boat I included things that I never used and decided to put them in storage as space is limited .
On Thursday, Tom and I worked on an auto helm into a Beneteau Idlyllic 35. It is going to be a very difficult job and we have finally come upon a way of installing it. Our work was cut short by the heavy rains that fell today. This of course required the bailing of Tom’s dinghy which had filled with rainwater to the gunwales (pronounced gunnels). We had to go back to his shop where the rain really started coming down. We spent the afternoon at “Bottoms Up” while it rained very hard. The bar is open to the lagoon and it was really noisy with lightening all around us. We are hoping to be able to return to the boat tomorrow and continue with the installation. Of course Tom’s boat is not as watertight as it could be and once again I have my clothes hanging around the main cabin drying. I noticed Tina, who owns “Bottoms Up”, was out in the lagoon trying to get the plug to her dinghy out so that it would drain. I waded out into the lagoon with an umbrella and covered her with it while I worked the stuck plug loose. I then waded back ashore under the umbrella with her. It was at this point that I informed her that her dress was somewhat soaked and the air chilly and she should keep that in mind when she transited the bar. She informed me as she walked away not to look at her ass. I swear to God I didn’t watch her ass as she walked away. I am really glad that I invested the money to be able to more easily get on line. I am writing this e-mail from my laptop sitting in the main saloon as it rains outside. I can attach my laptop to my cell phone and go on line. It is really cool being in a lagoon, on a boat, accessing the internet.
I finally finished installing the auto helm, giving Tom time to catch up with his work. His mother is very ill and he must fly back to the States, which requires him to finish up any pending jobs so he can leave. The days I spent working on the boat were somewhat uncomfortable. The boat is on a mooring in the lagoon meaning she could only be reached by dinghy. The days were very hot, little breeze with rain developing into high humidity. The air was so thick you could see bubbles in it. Most of the time was spent in very tight quarters below decks, or working at some very odd angles topsides in the cockpit. What made it worse was all the food I ate while in the States, but it is finally completed and works great. On Friday I went with Tom up on the North shore to a home high above Megan’s Bay. The road is one which twists back and forth following the steep hillside’s contours. It is owned by a lady from Ireland who lives in Connecticut and works in New York. Megan’s Bay located about a quarter mile below fills the lower horizon. I watched a sailboat passing over a white sandy bottom, clearly visible from our heights. Casting a shadow onto the white sandy bottom, coupled with the incredible clarity of the water gave the boat the illusion it was slowly floating above the ground. From the back deck, surrounded by rain forest is a view of the Windward Passage with the British Virgins in the distance. While watching the weather develop with rain over the Atlantic I spotted a waterspout in the distance with a dark funnel cloud disappearing into the base of an enormous thunderhead. I pointed it out to the other guys that were working on the rear deck. From the way the surface of the ocean was being ripped apart my thoughts naturally began to try imagining what it would be like aboard a boat in that. The houses location and view would be a great place to do a painting, very quiet. and of course, nothing being perfect, infested with mosquitoes which are a result of all the rain that has been falling the past week.
I have am now in Florida having a great time with my daughters. We all had dinner last night at Chrissy’s restaurant in Orlando and I will be driving back up tomorrow for a visit before flying back out to California on Tuesday. At least that is the plan at this point, but like most plans in my life subject to change and revision.
I must say I was very impressed with the workmanship that was used on my boat’s repairs. The boat looks great, maybe even better than before. The boatyard has been very helpful in making arrangements for the boats storage while on the hard this Summer. In addition to the repairs needed from the grounding I also had a thru-hull for the forward head’s discharge replaced. It seems the bronze valve was couple to the hose using a galvanized pipe fitting, normally used in houses. This fitting, couple to the bronze with exposure to saltwater caused the whole valve to corrode due to electrolysis. In addition I had the cutlass bearing replaced (this attaches the propeller shaft to the transmission. It is best to get all this done now as eventually they could cause some major problems. For those of you that have been aboard, you cannot believe how much the main saloon has been opened up with the removal of the table. It is big enough to dance in and is something I should have done long ago.
My best to you all, I will call when I get to California,
Marv
Monday, November 05, 2001
Tortola 2001
Hi.
It has been an interesting journey through this recent change of lifestyle that I have chosen for myself. My visit with Chrissy in New York was wonderful. I was put up in one of the Inn’s rooms by the General Manager as a favor to Chrissy and given first class treatment by everyone there . If any of you are contemplating a trip to the Hamptons this is definitely a great place to stay. The building The Inn at Quogue is located in is almost 300 years old, at least the original structure, which has had several additions since then.
The Hamptons on Long Island are beautiful, especially when the leaves are turning as they were during my visit. The small, pre-Revolutionary War villages were everything. I had tried to imagine what they would be like the first time I saw them. It was strange to think these villages were not some Disney re-creation in California but the real thing.
New York city had the highest energy level of any place I have ever experienced. Of course we had to ride around the city on the double decker buses (we froze) and sample the street vendors foods (hot dogs, etc). Wall Street was nothing like I had imagined it. It’s narrow, cobble stone streets lined with the massive buildings of the world’s financial institutions were very impressive.
We stopped at the barricades, behind which the recovery effort continues from the Sept. 11th attack. Nothing can prepare you for the devastation that hatred brought against those buildings and the innocent victims who perished with them. There are still fires burning and the smell is very strong at times. We were downwind from the ongoing salvage and were brought to tears by all the blowing dust and ash.
New York has taught me to keep an open mind when traveling. The people were very friendly and courteous, the countryside and city were beautiful, and I know I will be returning, there was a lot to see, so I will stay longer next time, and most importantly, I will do it when I won’t freeze my butt off.
I am presently aboard CHOICES in the VI Shipyard, at the West End or as it is also know, Soper’s Hole on Tortola. It has been very humid but the Trade Winds which blow through here make it almost tolerable. To say this past week has been a test would be an understatement. It first manifested itself when I landed on Tortola and my baggage was lost. One piece, as of today, Nov 13, still has not been found and contained a lot of the last minute purchases I bought after dropping my shipment of new boat parts and personal belongings off in Miami for shipping here.
The next shock came when I discovered how much the import fees were going to be. I explained to them I was only staying a short time, getting the boat ready to launch, then leaving in a few weeks. My shipper was able to work a deal with the HM Minister of Customs and I only had to pay a small percentage of the amount. I now have the things onboard, but by terms of my agreement with customs I cannot open any of the boxes, and cannot install any of the new electronics, while in this country and must leave within 14 days. As a consequence I now have a boat full of shipping containers, which is a whole other letter on getting them onboard as you will find out.
Last Friday, while working on the boat, the ladder came out from under me and I had a pretty hard landing. I felt a sharp pain in my right ankle but was able to stand on it. As the day progressed so did the pain and about 6 hours after I first injured the leg I could no longer walk on it and decided I had better get a ride into town to the clinic. It was discovered I had fractured the base of my tibia and am now in a cast and must use crutches to get around. It couldn’t have happened at a worse time. I am the 5th man this month to injure an ankle in this boatyard and the 3rd to break a bone, one which was far more serious than mine and required surgery.
One of the greatest benefits of the cruising lifestyle is the interesting people who cross your path. I have made many new friends and will be sad when it is time to say goodbye. That is the worse part of this life. To make it easier cruiser’s never say good bye, just a promise of “I’ll see you later”. Many of my new acquaintances are very remarkable people with interesting stories and great advice on everything from solving boat system problems, who does what best and where I can find them to the best way to navigate someplace and what I should expect when I get there. Several have crossed the Atlantic from South Africa and Europe, a few have even circumnavigated. My yard manager has sailed boats all over the world, and is one of the best wooden boat wrights in the world, working out of an old shed here in the yard.
I stayed at the Jolly Roger Inn, a small hotel and restaurant near the ferry docks, for the first 5 days then moved aboard, where I am now writing this letter.
Henry, my neighbor and who lives aboard, has been taking me around the island and introducing me to some of the locals as well as teaching me about “local protocol” . He is a professional diver and has been diving in the waters around these islands for 8 years. He told me there are 462 documented shipwreck sights, predating 1600 around Anegada Island, just north of here. He has a friend from Uraguy staying with him, also a professional diver, by the name of Xavier. Xavier was born in France, has a diving company that takes tourist diving off the Galapagos Islands as well as a bungee jumping business located on one of the highest suspension bridges in the Andes, he is also fluent in English, French and Spanish! Many people living here are fluent in 2 or more languages because of the international nature of the Caribbean. He thinks I should come visit him next year and take a dive off the bridge, I doubt it will happen (the jumping part). Henry has promised to take me to some of the most beautiful spots around the islands so I will be able to share some of them with my friends who come down for a visit. It is funny to hear the two of them carry on a conversation. When having a normal discussion they talk in English, but when the subject becomes heated or it turns into an argument they unconsciously shift to Spanish. Whatever they are arguing about sounds a lot more heated in Spanish, and they always explain to me afterwards what is was all about. I am definitely going to have to work at learning more Spanish or get a first mate who can teach me.
Today I went lobster fishing with Xavier and Henry in the dinghy that came with the boat. They followed an underwater shelf while I waited in the boat, just outside the bay, following their bubbles, or at least trying to. I cannot get my cast wet so I wrap my leg from the knee down in a Glad trash bag. They didn’t see any lobster, but they brought back a Red Snapper, a small Grouper and an Octopus.
As you might be guessing, this letter is beginning to take days as I usually sit down in the evening. The Trades died to nothing last night and have not returned, raising the temperatures, and humidity. Fortunately I spent the summer in Florida and have gotten used to it.
I pulled the rudder today, at least I watched intensely. Peter, who was doing the work, a young man from Dominica, in the Windward Islands, and I enjoyed a conversation most of the afternoon, in the cockpit, under the awning. I continue trying to get everything done, on crutches. Thanks to the kindness of others it is possible, and I am glad for their help, getting in and out of the dinghy, taking me to the store and fetching the things I need and taking them to the counter for me. Tonight Henry brought me a plate of steaming, fresh off the grill young grouper and the octopus cooked in a garlic infused oil. I ate dinner in my cockpit, watching the sunset. If I have ever enjoyed a meal more it could have only been in the company of a fine lady with whom I hoped to impress. Henry is to be complimented on a meal that rivals any I can make.
The nights here are beautiful to the eye, and at times it is even quiet, at least during the short periods when the dogs aren’t barking and the roosters aren’t crowing. One rooster is particularly close, although I have not seen him, just heard him.
It is frustrating trying to do anything, this ankle is really starting to get in the way of things. I will be installing the probe transponder tomorrow, which will require me to drill a hole thru my hull, then I must reseal the box for Customs exit inspection. Otherwise I will have to have her hauled again in order to install it.
Winslow Homer came down to the Caribbean in an attempt to rid himself of the demons that remained from his horrific experiences in the Civil War as an illustrator for Harper’s. He was immediately taken by the colors of the place. Known as one of America’s greatest watercolorist, some of his best work came from this period.
I had the opportunity to visit Pinto, a new acquaintance and friend as well as the most extraordinary artist I have met. He designed several albums covers and has an eye that few can achieve. He has worked in Europe and is one of the best airbrush artists in the world. He lives up on the hill with his beautiful wife and 5 equally beautiful children from a year and a half to 13 years and their three orphaned kids, which they are raising. The young kids are only a few weeks old and are already pets, waging their tails and love getting their ears scratched. They have free run of the house and play with the children. If you don’t pay attention to them they jump up on their hind legs and get it. They obviously don’t know they are goats.
It hasn’t been easy since moving aboard, even with the kind help of others. To get on and off I must climb a ladder, there is no running water yet (tanks are empty), the toilets won’t work until launch next week, which I found out last night will be delayed a couple of days. There is no refrigeration as this requires the diesel and that can’t be ran until the boat is afloat. To go anywhere requires a ride with someone or a taxi. Road Town, by taxi is $18 one way. I now have the dinghy so I can go around the harbor in that as long as I take precautions not to get my cast wet. I have given up trying to get in and out of it with any kind of seafaring flare. As the saying goes “The difference between ordeal and adventure is attitude”.
It is going to be another OFF night, with no sea breezes the mosquitoes will be out in mass. Trying to stay dry with this heat and humidity is impossible. In fact being dry is so rare that you begin to not even notice it is raining, which is warm and of little help in providing relief and usually just makes it more humid. The weather man said it was going to be raining on and off the rest of the day.
It is not frowned upon by the islanders if someone decides to have themselves a chicken dinner, ya mon. They are everywhere and if you get hungry and need some sleep.........
Yesterday I took the ferry to Charlotte Amalie on St Thomas which is about 19 miles from here and a whole lot more people. Getting to the ferry required about 3/4 mile hike by crutch. I got there early so stopped in for breakfast of Johnny cake and fried chicken in a small shop. Everyone was very considerate. These big guys gave me a hand down off the ferry both ways and everyone went the extra step. While on St Thomas I got a mailbox and cell phone, but is blocked on the BVI’s by the local cell company, so I will be able to make and receive calls in The US Virgin Islands as well as receive mail and most importantly a place to have boat parts shipped. I hiked on over to Ace Hardware in scorching heat and humidity unable to get a taxi to stop. I did some shopping and finally flagged a taxi who was stopped at a gas station and cornered him into giving me a ride to the ferry docks. Like a lot of the people down here he has a son serving in the US Air Force in Germany. Many also have sons and daughters going to school up in the States. I have discovered during my time down here that they really love the United States. Many times I have been told “We going to be gettin’ back at dem Taliban Mon, dey is nuttin but pure evil, children of satan himself”. Once back here on Tortola I got to take the walk back to the boat and once there get some water up on the boat.
I can’t describe the frustration having the people here who can install my new autohelm and electronics, which includes a thru hull transponder which is going to require some changes to the original plan, like everything else these days “subject to change”. My contractor let me know via the yard manager, James, who is also an awesome wooden shipwright as well as yard manager. On launch day he drives the boat over to the crane on a special trailer where it is lifted into the air by large webbed straps and then swung out over the water and lowered into the water. Hopefully this will conclude any more contacts with land or rocks in an unplanned manner. I may just wait to install my electronics until next Summer when I am laying over for hurricane season and need something to do, or I may see about going into St Thomas and having it done there.
I am writing from the cockpit where there is some breeze blowing, helping to stay cool that way. Even the locals say it is really hot and humid so I am not being a little Nancy Boy about this. Tonight there is supposed to be the Leonid Meteor Shower in the direction of Leo. This is supposedly the best viewing spot and I plan on sleeping out on deck and watching for them. The night skies are really beautiful here,
Today I worked on some boat projects and feel like I am trying to get chaos organized. I got in my dinghy and drove over to the Jolly Roger down the bay past the ferry docks. From the dinghy dock I galloped down to the public phones that I had cards for at the ferry docks. Both cards only had a few minutes each on them which was promptly eaten by the phone. It then went dead on me and refused to take my change. Meaning I had gone all that way for nothing. I hiked back to the Jolly Roger, had lunch and headed across the bay to Pusser’s Rum factory store and bar. I was able to get a card and try again. This time it went thru and we got all the important details of when and where and how to’s taken care of for an upcoming visit by my friends Mac and Kim. From there I went under a small bridge to a small store with a little dock on the back to tie up to. I got some drinking water and a couple of cans of cold tonic water. I am getting better with the crutches, I am able to leap over mud holes after it rains here and speed bumps, which I use to give me a little boost in momentum.
My friend, Henry stopped by today and dropped off some groceries that were left on some charter boats, a large bag full of assorted food stuffs including coffee, a couple of six packs of beer. He tells me the boat will be a lot cooler in the water. Working for Moorings he has a lot of working knowledge of Beneteaus as well as where to get parts at cost or cheaper. He also knows the mechanics that maintained the boat originally while it was in charter service. I haven’t checked the diesel yet and I will be taking care of that before launch. I have checked the engine, not a thorough check, but was told this is a very healthy diesel according to the head mechanic at the charter service that she was maintained by. I must say I do envy Bruce’s deep bilge on Sail la Vie, lots of room, by comparison, to work on the engine. But from all opinions I have been able to gather concerning my boat from delivery skippers, Moorings employees, charter boat captains as well as James and Henry here at the yard, I have heard nothing but praise for this designs ease of handling, toughness and speed. They were built lighter but engineered to be tough, so they are faster and make quicker passages.
“We” finally got the new rudder bearings in yesterday. I talked to James about getting a flaring block made for a new transponder I am installing and he told me he would be by this morning to install it so that I have no more haul-outs for awhile. It is forward looking sonar which is really needed here where the water can get very “thin” quickly. It looks as though I won’t be launching until tomorrow due to circumstances beyond my control, or also known as “island time”. Island time bears many resemblances to “Manana” in Mexico, which many have confused with thinking it means tomorrow. What it really means is just not today.
James has come and gone and the new transponder is in place. He built a faring block out of teak and it is beautifully crafted, a real shame to have to paint anti-fouling paint all over it. Henry and Xavier invited me along with them lobster hunting. We went out where it is generally too rough in Drake’s Passage because of the normal prevailing winds, which have shifted, something they do only a few days each year. They found a cave full of lobsters and we took 8 of them home along with a couple of giant sea scallops, 2 huge Dungeness crabs and a couple of local fish very popular among the locals. We grilled 4 lobsters, 2 steaks, a pot of beans and feasted. They were very, very fresh and way beyond description, but let it be said my lips have touch immortality. Of course I had my cast wrapped in a plastic bag which sprung a leak and soaked it. We got drenched out in the channel and I can’t wait to be able to get in the water and not worry about it.
It is Thanksgiving and today we re-launch. If only I could take a nice dive off the transom but my cast would probably just get waterlogged and dragged me down to an untimely end. It is definitely cooler on the water. Most systems are testing out okay, the biggest problem is the water tanks, but I will get it all straightened out before departure. Robert, head mechanic for Tortola Marine Maintenance and who used to maintain this boat and knows her inside and out came by to help. He is going to go thru the diesel and show me how to change the oil as well as check it over. It ran for a couple hours and started right up. I must say our attitude has changed since we are back in the water. CHOICES has come back to life, and has movement onboard. I now have hot water, refrigeration and all the comforts of home, well maybe a freezer with ice and most important ice cream would be nice, but compared to the last few weeks, pure heaven. Mac and Kim arrive on St Thomas tonight too late to come over to Tortola on the ferry. I will meet them at the ferry docks in the morning, but now I am going to take the first hot shower I have had in many weeks, and my first aboard my new home.
I am resuming the writing of this letter the day after Mac’s departure back to California. It has been three weeks since leaving Tortola and a lot has happened. Of course Customs on Tortola was totally disinterested in making even the most casual of checks on my shipping containers. I could have opened them all and unpacked them while being laid up waiting to re-launch. In addition I could have installed my new electronics and boat equipment as well.
We took the boat out and sailed down Sir Francis Drake Passage and tied up to a mooring off Caneel Bay on St John Island. We spent the next couple of days there and left shortly after Kim flew back to California as she was only able to spend a week here. Sailing around the west end of St John we made for Coral Bay, next to Hurricane Hole on the south eastern side of the island, where we anchored. Like most of the small mooring or anchorages there is always a local bar which can best described as a place out of a Jimmy Buffet song. We took the bus over the top of the island to Cruz Bay, past the wild goats and donkeys that can be found everywhere.
I went to the hospital on St John to have my ankle re-examined but was told I would have to go to St Thomas as nobody there was qualified to do so. The advice I have been given by almost everyone is to go to St Thomas as the doctors and clinics on Tortola and St John are a “problem”.
I went into St Thomas the following week and was found to be mended well enough to remove the cast and start walking on the injured leg without crutches. You cannot imagine how good it felt to hear that. The leg is still somewhat sore, but it gets better with each passing day. The best part concerning that news took place the next morning when I was able to dive off the stern and finally enjoy the great waters. I have a fresh water rinse built into the swim step and took a bath in the Caribbean.
Lying once again off Caneel Bay Mac and I were able to go diving in the clear waters where we encountered rays, a spotted eel and many other species of fish by the thousands. Our problem seems to be our close approximation to Cruz Bay where there are a lot of great places to eat. Staying there it would be impossible for anyone not to gain weight.
It is the rainy season down here and has been raining on and off everyday. Just when it looks like it going to be clear, down comes another downpour. It is the only place I have stood in the rain with a clear sky overhead. It started raining last night and has been raining almost continuously since, which is another reason I am finishing the writing of this letter now.
Sailing across from St John we anchored in Benner Bay, near the east end of St Thomas around the corner from Red Hook for those of you who are familiar with the area. Going through the Bay I went aground. It is said there are two kinds of sailors: those that have gone aground and those that will. A depth sounder is an absolute necessity and the installation of my new sonar is a major priority. The boat is now in a small marina on St Thomas where I was able to get a slip. It is hard to find any available slips this time of year and I was lucky to get his one. It has all the facilities I will need to complete the installation of my new equipment and will probably be here for awhile. My plans are to sail the many islands in the Virgin Islands while here and become totally familiar with the boat. She continues to impress me with her speed and easy handling.
It is really coming down hard, my new home is still dry and there is still no sign of my lost baggage as of Dec 15th. To all I have sent this may you have a Great Christmas and a wonderful New Year.
Marv
It has been an interesting journey through this recent change of lifestyle that I have chosen for myself. My visit with Chrissy in New York was wonderful. I was put up in one of the Inn’s rooms by the General Manager as a favor to Chrissy and given first class treatment by everyone there . If any of you are contemplating a trip to the Hamptons this is definitely a great place to stay. The building The Inn at Quogue is located in is almost 300 years old, at least the original structure, which has had several additions since then.
The Hamptons on Long Island are beautiful, especially when the leaves are turning as they were during my visit. The small, pre-Revolutionary War villages were everything. I had tried to imagine what they would be like the first time I saw them. It was strange to think these villages were not some Disney re-creation in California but the real thing.
New York city had the highest energy level of any place I have ever experienced. Of course we had to ride around the city on the double decker buses (we froze) and sample the street vendors foods (hot dogs, etc). Wall Street was nothing like I had imagined it. It’s narrow, cobble stone streets lined with the massive buildings of the world’s financial institutions were very impressive.
We stopped at the barricades, behind which the recovery effort continues from the Sept. 11th attack. Nothing can prepare you for the devastation that hatred brought against those buildings and the innocent victims who perished with them. There are still fires burning and the smell is very strong at times. We were downwind from the ongoing salvage and were brought to tears by all the blowing dust and ash.
New York has taught me to keep an open mind when traveling. The people were very friendly and courteous, the countryside and city were beautiful, and I know I will be returning, there was a lot to see, so I will stay longer next time, and most importantly, I will do it when I won’t freeze my butt off.
I am presently aboard CHOICES in the VI Shipyard, at the West End or as it is also know, Soper’s Hole on Tortola. It has been very humid but the Trade Winds which blow through here make it almost tolerable. To say this past week has been a test would be an understatement. It first manifested itself when I landed on Tortola and my baggage was lost. One piece, as of today, Nov 13, still has not been found and contained a lot of the last minute purchases I bought after dropping my shipment of new boat parts and personal belongings off in Miami for shipping here.
The next shock came when I discovered how much the import fees were going to be. I explained to them I was only staying a short time, getting the boat ready to launch, then leaving in a few weeks. My shipper was able to work a deal with the HM Minister of Customs and I only had to pay a small percentage of the amount. I now have the things onboard, but by terms of my agreement with customs I cannot open any of the boxes, and cannot install any of the new electronics, while in this country and must leave within 14 days. As a consequence I now have a boat full of shipping containers, which is a whole other letter on getting them onboard as you will find out.
Last Friday, while working on the boat, the ladder came out from under me and I had a pretty hard landing. I felt a sharp pain in my right ankle but was able to stand on it. As the day progressed so did the pain and about 6 hours after I first injured the leg I could no longer walk on it and decided I had better get a ride into town to the clinic. It was discovered I had fractured the base of my tibia and am now in a cast and must use crutches to get around. It couldn’t have happened at a worse time. I am the 5th man this month to injure an ankle in this boatyard and the 3rd to break a bone, one which was far more serious than mine and required surgery.
One of the greatest benefits of the cruising lifestyle is the interesting people who cross your path. I have made many new friends and will be sad when it is time to say goodbye. That is the worse part of this life. To make it easier cruiser’s never say good bye, just a promise of “I’ll see you later”. Many of my new acquaintances are very remarkable people with interesting stories and great advice on everything from solving boat system problems, who does what best and where I can find them to the best way to navigate someplace and what I should expect when I get there. Several have crossed the Atlantic from South Africa and Europe, a few have even circumnavigated. My yard manager has sailed boats all over the world, and is one of the best wooden boat wrights in the world, working out of an old shed here in the yard.
I stayed at the Jolly Roger Inn, a small hotel and restaurant near the ferry docks, for the first 5 days then moved aboard, where I am now writing this letter.
Henry, my neighbor and who lives aboard, has been taking me around the island and introducing me to some of the locals as well as teaching me about “local protocol” . He is a professional diver and has been diving in the waters around these islands for 8 years. He told me there are 462 documented shipwreck sights, predating 1600 around Anegada Island, just north of here. He has a friend from Uraguy staying with him, also a professional diver, by the name of Xavier. Xavier was born in France, has a diving company that takes tourist diving off the Galapagos Islands as well as a bungee jumping business located on one of the highest suspension bridges in the Andes, he is also fluent in English, French and Spanish! Many people living here are fluent in 2 or more languages because of the international nature of the Caribbean. He thinks I should come visit him next year and take a dive off the bridge, I doubt it will happen (the jumping part). Henry has promised to take me to some of the most beautiful spots around the islands so I will be able to share some of them with my friends who come down for a visit. It is funny to hear the two of them carry on a conversation. When having a normal discussion they talk in English, but when the subject becomes heated or it turns into an argument they unconsciously shift to Spanish. Whatever they are arguing about sounds a lot more heated in Spanish, and they always explain to me afterwards what is was all about. I am definitely going to have to work at learning more Spanish or get a first mate who can teach me.
Today I went lobster fishing with Xavier and Henry in the dinghy that came with the boat. They followed an underwater shelf while I waited in the boat, just outside the bay, following their bubbles, or at least trying to. I cannot get my cast wet so I wrap my leg from the knee down in a Glad trash bag. They didn’t see any lobster, but they brought back a Red Snapper, a small Grouper and an Octopus.
As you might be guessing, this letter is beginning to take days as I usually sit down in the evening. The Trades died to nothing last night and have not returned, raising the temperatures, and humidity. Fortunately I spent the summer in Florida and have gotten used to it.
I pulled the rudder today, at least I watched intensely. Peter, who was doing the work, a young man from Dominica, in the Windward Islands, and I enjoyed a conversation most of the afternoon, in the cockpit, under the awning. I continue trying to get everything done, on crutches. Thanks to the kindness of others it is possible, and I am glad for their help, getting in and out of the dinghy, taking me to the store and fetching the things I need and taking them to the counter for me. Tonight Henry brought me a plate of steaming, fresh off the grill young grouper and the octopus cooked in a garlic infused oil. I ate dinner in my cockpit, watching the sunset. If I have ever enjoyed a meal more it could have only been in the company of a fine lady with whom I hoped to impress. Henry is to be complimented on a meal that rivals any I can make.
The nights here are beautiful to the eye, and at times it is even quiet, at least during the short periods when the dogs aren’t barking and the roosters aren’t crowing. One rooster is particularly close, although I have not seen him, just heard him.
It is frustrating trying to do anything, this ankle is really starting to get in the way of things. I will be installing the probe transponder tomorrow, which will require me to drill a hole thru my hull, then I must reseal the box for Customs exit inspection. Otherwise I will have to have her hauled again in order to install it.
Winslow Homer came down to the Caribbean in an attempt to rid himself of the demons that remained from his horrific experiences in the Civil War as an illustrator for Harper’s. He was immediately taken by the colors of the place. Known as one of America’s greatest watercolorist, some of his best work came from this period.
I had the opportunity to visit Pinto, a new acquaintance and friend as well as the most extraordinary artist I have met. He designed several albums covers and has an eye that few can achieve. He has worked in Europe and is one of the best airbrush artists in the world. He lives up on the hill with his beautiful wife and 5 equally beautiful children from a year and a half to 13 years and their three orphaned kids, which they are raising. The young kids are only a few weeks old and are already pets, waging their tails and love getting their ears scratched. They have free run of the house and play with the children. If you don’t pay attention to them they jump up on their hind legs and get it. They obviously don’t know they are goats.
It hasn’t been easy since moving aboard, even with the kind help of others. To get on and off I must climb a ladder, there is no running water yet (tanks are empty), the toilets won’t work until launch next week, which I found out last night will be delayed a couple of days. There is no refrigeration as this requires the diesel and that can’t be ran until the boat is afloat. To go anywhere requires a ride with someone or a taxi. Road Town, by taxi is $18 one way. I now have the dinghy so I can go around the harbor in that as long as I take precautions not to get my cast wet. I have given up trying to get in and out of it with any kind of seafaring flare. As the saying goes “The difference between ordeal and adventure is attitude”.
It is going to be another OFF night, with no sea breezes the mosquitoes will be out in mass. Trying to stay dry with this heat and humidity is impossible. In fact being dry is so rare that you begin to not even notice it is raining, which is warm and of little help in providing relief and usually just makes it more humid. The weather man said it was going to be raining on and off the rest of the day.
It is not frowned upon by the islanders if someone decides to have themselves a chicken dinner, ya mon. They are everywhere and if you get hungry and need some sleep.........
Yesterday I took the ferry to Charlotte Amalie on St Thomas which is about 19 miles from here and a whole lot more people. Getting to the ferry required about 3/4 mile hike by crutch. I got there early so stopped in for breakfast of Johnny cake and fried chicken in a small shop. Everyone was very considerate. These big guys gave me a hand down off the ferry both ways and everyone went the extra step. While on St Thomas I got a mailbox and cell phone, but is blocked on the BVI’s by the local cell company, so I will be able to make and receive calls in The US Virgin Islands as well as receive mail and most importantly a place to have boat parts shipped. I hiked on over to Ace Hardware in scorching heat and humidity unable to get a taxi to stop. I did some shopping and finally flagged a taxi who was stopped at a gas station and cornered him into giving me a ride to the ferry docks. Like a lot of the people down here he has a son serving in the US Air Force in Germany. Many also have sons and daughters going to school up in the States. I have discovered during my time down here that they really love the United States. Many times I have been told “We going to be gettin’ back at dem Taliban Mon, dey is nuttin but pure evil, children of satan himself”. Once back here on Tortola I got to take the walk back to the boat and once there get some water up on the boat.
I can’t describe the frustration having the people here who can install my new autohelm and electronics, which includes a thru hull transponder which is going to require some changes to the original plan, like everything else these days “subject to change”. My contractor let me know via the yard manager, James, who is also an awesome wooden shipwright as well as yard manager. On launch day he drives the boat over to the crane on a special trailer where it is lifted into the air by large webbed straps and then swung out over the water and lowered into the water. Hopefully this will conclude any more contacts with land or rocks in an unplanned manner. I may just wait to install my electronics until next Summer when I am laying over for hurricane season and need something to do, or I may see about going into St Thomas and having it done there.
I am writing from the cockpit where there is some breeze blowing, helping to stay cool that way. Even the locals say it is really hot and humid so I am not being a little Nancy Boy about this. Tonight there is supposed to be the Leonid Meteor Shower in the direction of Leo. This is supposedly the best viewing spot and I plan on sleeping out on deck and watching for them. The night skies are really beautiful here,
Today I worked on some boat projects and feel like I am trying to get chaos organized. I got in my dinghy and drove over to the Jolly Roger down the bay past the ferry docks. From the dinghy dock I galloped down to the public phones that I had cards for at the ferry docks. Both cards only had a few minutes each on them which was promptly eaten by the phone. It then went dead on me and refused to take my change. Meaning I had gone all that way for nothing. I hiked back to the Jolly Roger, had lunch and headed across the bay to Pusser’s Rum factory store and bar. I was able to get a card and try again. This time it went thru and we got all the important details of when and where and how to’s taken care of for an upcoming visit by my friends Mac and Kim. From there I went under a small bridge to a small store with a little dock on the back to tie up to. I got some drinking water and a couple of cans of cold tonic water. I am getting better with the crutches, I am able to leap over mud holes after it rains here and speed bumps, which I use to give me a little boost in momentum.
My friend, Henry stopped by today and dropped off some groceries that were left on some charter boats, a large bag full of assorted food stuffs including coffee, a couple of six packs of beer. He tells me the boat will be a lot cooler in the water. Working for Moorings he has a lot of working knowledge of Beneteaus as well as where to get parts at cost or cheaper. He also knows the mechanics that maintained the boat originally while it was in charter service. I haven’t checked the diesel yet and I will be taking care of that before launch. I have checked the engine, not a thorough check, but was told this is a very healthy diesel according to the head mechanic at the charter service that she was maintained by. I must say I do envy Bruce’s deep bilge on Sail la Vie, lots of room, by comparison, to work on the engine. But from all opinions I have been able to gather concerning my boat from delivery skippers, Moorings employees, charter boat captains as well as James and Henry here at the yard, I have heard nothing but praise for this designs ease of handling, toughness and speed. They were built lighter but engineered to be tough, so they are faster and make quicker passages.
“We” finally got the new rudder bearings in yesterday. I talked to James about getting a flaring block made for a new transponder I am installing and he told me he would be by this morning to install it so that I have no more haul-outs for awhile. It is forward looking sonar which is really needed here where the water can get very “thin” quickly. It looks as though I won’t be launching until tomorrow due to circumstances beyond my control, or also known as “island time”. Island time bears many resemblances to “Manana” in Mexico, which many have confused with thinking it means tomorrow. What it really means is just not today.
James has come and gone and the new transponder is in place. He built a faring block out of teak and it is beautifully crafted, a real shame to have to paint anti-fouling paint all over it. Henry and Xavier invited me along with them lobster hunting. We went out where it is generally too rough in Drake’s Passage because of the normal prevailing winds, which have shifted, something they do only a few days each year. They found a cave full of lobsters and we took 8 of them home along with a couple of giant sea scallops, 2 huge Dungeness crabs and a couple of local fish very popular among the locals. We grilled 4 lobsters, 2 steaks, a pot of beans and feasted. They were very, very fresh and way beyond description, but let it be said my lips have touch immortality. Of course I had my cast wrapped in a plastic bag which sprung a leak and soaked it. We got drenched out in the channel and I can’t wait to be able to get in the water and not worry about it.
It is Thanksgiving and today we re-launch. If only I could take a nice dive off the transom but my cast would probably just get waterlogged and dragged me down to an untimely end. It is definitely cooler on the water. Most systems are testing out okay, the biggest problem is the water tanks, but I will get it all straightened out before departure. Robert, head mechanic for Tortola Marine Maintenance and who used to maintain this boat and knows her inside and out came by to help. He is going to go thru the diesel and show me how to change the oil as well as check it over. It ran for a couple hours and started right up. I must say our attitude has changed since we are back in the water. CHOICES has come back to life, and has movement onboard. I now have hot water, refrigeration and all the comforts of home, well maybe a freezer with ice and most important ice cream would be nice, but compared to the last few weeks, pure heaven. Mac and Kim arrive on St Thomas tonight too late to come over to Tortola on the ferry. I will meet them at the ferry docks in the morning, but now I am going to take the first hot shower I have had in many weeks, and my first aboard my new home.
I am resuming the writing of this letter the day after Mac’s departure back to California. It has been three weeks since leaving Tortola and a lot has happened. Of course Customs on Tortola was totally disinterested in making even the most casual of checks on my shipping containers. I could have opened them all and unpacked them while being laid up waiting to re-launch. In addition I could have installed my new electronics and boat equipment as well.
We took the boat out and sailed down Sir Francis Drake Passage and tied up to a mooring off Caneel Bay on St John Island. We spent the next couple of days there and left shortly after Kim flew back to California as she was only able to spend a week here. Sailing around the west end of St John we made for Coral Bay, next to Hurricane Hole on the south eastern side of the island, where we anchored. Like most of the small mooring or anchorages there is always a local bar which can best described as a place out of a Jimmy Buffet song. We took the bus over the top of the island to Cruz Bay, past the wild goats and donkeys that can be found everywhere.
I went to the hospital on St John to have my ankle re-examined but was told I would have to go to St Thomas as nobody there was qualified to do so. The advice I have been given by almost everyone is to go to St Thomas as the doctors and clinics on Tortola and St John are a “problem”.
I went into St Thomas the following week and was found to be mended well enough to remove the cast and start walking on the injured leg without crutches. You cannot imagine how good it felt to hear that. The leg is still somewhat sore, but it gets better with each passing day. The best part concerning that news took place the next morning when I was able to dive off the stern and finally enjoy the great waters. I have a fresh water rinse built into the swim step and took a bath in the Caribbean.
Lying once again off Caneel Bay Mac and I were able to go diving in the clear waters where we encountered rays, a spotted eel and many other species of fish by the thousands. Our problem seems to be our close approximation to Cruz Bay where there are a lot of great places to eat. Staying there it would be impossible for anyone not to gain weight.
It is the rainy season down here and has been raining on and off everyday. Just when it looks like it going to be clear, down comes another downpour. It is the only place I have stood in the rain with a clear sky overhead. It started raining last night and has been raining almost continuously since, which is another reason I am finishing the writing of this letter now.
Sailing across from St John we anchored in Benner Bay, near the east end of St Thomas around the corner from Red Hook for those of you who are familiar with the area. Going through the Bay I went aground. It is said there are two kinds of sailors: those that have gone aground and those that will. A depth sounder is an absolute necessity and the installation of my new sonar is a major priority. The boat is now in a small marina on St Thomas where I was able to get a slip. It is hard to find any available slips this time of year and I was lucky to get his one. It has all the facilities I will need to complete the installation of my new equipment and will probably be here for awhile. My plans are to sail the many islands in the Virgin Islands while here and become totally familiar with the boat. She continues to impress me with her speed and easy handling.
It is really coming down hard, my new home is still dry and there is still no sign of my lost baggage as of Dec 15th. To all I have sent this may you have a Great Christmas and a wonderful New Year.
Marv
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