Tortola 2001

Hi.
It has been an interesting journey through this recent change of lifestyle that I have chosen for myself. My visit with Chrissy in New York was wonderful. I was put up in one of the Inn’s rooms by the General Manager as a favor to Chrissy and given first class treatment by everyone there . If any of you are contemplating a trip to the Hamptons this is definitely a great place to stay. The building The Inn at Quogue is located in is almost 300 years old, at least the original structure, which has had several additions since then.
The Hamptons on Long Island are beautiful, especially when the leaves are turning as they were during my visit. The small, pre-Revolutionary War villages were everything. I had tried to imagine what they would be like the first time I saw them. It was strange to think these villages were not some Disney re-creation in California but the real thing.
New York city had the highest energy level of any place I have ever experienced. Of course we had to ride around the city on the double decker buses (we froze) and sample the street vendors foods (hot dogs, etc). Wall Street was nothing like I had imagined it. It’s narrow, cobble stone streets lined with the massive buildings of the world’s financial institutions were very impressive.
We stopped at the barricades, behind which the recovery effort continues from the Sept. 11th attack. Nothing can prepare you for the devastation that hatred brought against those buildings and the innocent victims who perished with them. There are still fires burning and the smell is very strong at times. We were downwind from the ongoing salvage and were brought to tears by all the blowing dust and ash.
New York has taught me to keep an open mind when traveling. The people were very friendly and courteous, the countryside and city were beautiful, and I know I will be returning, there was a lot to see, so I will stay longer next time, and most importantly, I will do it when I won’t freeze my butt off.
I am presently aboard CHOICES in the VI Shipyard, at the West End or as it is also know, Soper’s Hole on Tortola. It has been very humid but the Trade Winds which blow through here make it almost tolerable. To say this past week has been a test would be an understatement. It first manifested itself when I landed on Tortola and my baggage was lost. One piece, as of today, Nov 13, still has not been found and contained a lot of the last minute purchases I bought after dropping my shipment of new boat parts and personal belongings off in Miami for shipping here.
The next shock came when I discovered how much the import fees were going to be. I explained to them I was only staying a short time, getting the boat ready to launch, then leaving in a few weeks. My shipper was able to work a deal with the HM Minister of Customs and I only had to pay a small percentage of the amount. I now have the things onboard, but by terms of my agreement with customs I cannot open any of the boxes, and cannot install any of the new electronics, while in this country and must leave within 14 days. As a consequence I now have a boat full of shipping containers, which is a whole other letter on getting them onboard as you will find out.
Last Friday, while working on the boat, the ladder came out from under me and I had a pretty hard landing. I felt a sharp pain in my right ankle but was able to stand on it. As the day progressed so did the pain and about 6 hours after I first injured the leg I could no longer walk on it and decided I had better get a ride into town to the clinic. It was discovered I had fractured the base of my tibia and am now in a cast and must use crutches to get around. It couldn’t have happened at a worse time. I am the 5th man this month to injure an ankle in this boatyard and the 3rd to break a bone, one which was far more serious than mine and required surgery.
One of the greatest benefits of the cruising lifestyle is the interesting people who cross your path. I have made many new friends and will be sad when it is time to say goodbye. That is the worse part of this life. To make it easier cruiser’s never say good bye, just a promise of “I’ll see you later”. Many of my new acquaintances are very remarkable people with interesting stories and great advice on everything from solving boat system problems, who does what best and where I can find them to the best way to navigate someplace and what I should expect when I get there. Several have crossed the Atlantic from South Africa and Europe, a few have even circumnavigated. My yard manager has sailed boats all over the world, and is one of the best wooden boat wrights in the world, working out of an old shed here in the yard.
I stayed at the Jolly Roger Inn, a small hotel and restaurant near the ferry docks, for the first 5 days then moved aboard, where I am now writing this letter.
Henry, my neighbor and who lives aboard, has been taking me around the island and introducing me to some of the locals as well as teaching me about “local protocol” . He is a professional diver and has been diving in the waters around these islands for 8 years. He told me there are 462 documented shipwreck sights, predating 1600 around Anegada Island, just north of here. He has a friend from Uraguy staying with him, also a professional diver, by the name of Xavier. Xavier was born in France, has a diving company that takes tourist diving off the Galapagos Islands as well as a bungee jumping business located on one of the highest suspension bridges in the Andes, he is also fluent in English, French and Spanish! Many people living here are fluent in 2 or more languages because of the international nature of the Caribbean. He thinks I should come visit him next year and take a dive off the bridge, I doubt it will happen (the jumping part). Henry has promised to take me to some of the most beautiful spots around the islands so I will be able to share some of them with my friends who come down for a visit. It is funny to hear the two of them carry on a conversation. When having a normal discussion they talk in English, but when the subject becomes heated or it turns into an argument they unconsciously shift to Spanish. Whatever they are arguing about sounds a lot more heated in Spanish, and they always explain to me afterwards what is was all about. I am definitely going to have to work at learning more Spanish or get a first mate who can teach me.
Today I went lobster fishing with Xavier and Henry in the dinghy that came with the boat. They followed an underwater shelf while I waited in the boat, just outside the bay, following their bubbles, or at least trying to. I cannot get my cast wet so I wrap my leg from the knee down in a Glad trash bag. They didn’t see any lobster, but they brought back a Red Snapper, a small Grouper and an Octopus.
As you might be guessing, this letter is beginning to take days as I usually sit down in the evening. The Trades died to nothing last night and have not returned, raising the temperatures, and humidity. Fortunately I spent the summer in Florida and have gotten used to it.
I pulled the rudder today, at least I watched intensely. Peter, who was doing the work, a young man from Dominica, in the Windward Islands, and I enjoyed a conversation most of the afternoon, in the cockpit, under the awning. I continue trying to get everything done, on crutches. Thanks to the kindness of others it is possible, and I am glad for their help, getting in and out of the dinghy, taking me to the store and fetching the things I need and taking them to the counter for me. Tonight Henry brought me a plate of steaming, fresh off the grill young grouper and the octopus cooked in a garlic infused oil. I ate dinner in my cockpit, watching the sunset. If I have ever enjoyed a meal more it could have only been in the company of a fine lady with whom I hoped to impress. Henry is to be complimented on a meal that rivals any I can make.
The nights here are beautiful to the eye, and at times it is even quiet, at least during the short periods when the dogs aren’t barking and the roosters aren’t crowing. One rooster is particularly close, although I have not seen him, just heard him.
It is frustrating trying to do anything, this ankle is really starting to get in the way of things. I will be installing the probe transponder tomorrow, which will require me to drill a hole thru my hull, then I must reseal the box for Customs exit inspection. Otherwise I will have to have her hauled again in order to install it.
Winslow Homer came down to the Caribbean in an attempt to rid himself of the demons that remained from his horrific experiences in the Civil War as an illustrator for Harper’s. He was immediately taken by the colors of the place. Known as one of America’s greatest watercolorist, some of his best work came from this period.
I had the opportunity to visit Pinto, a new acquaintance and friend as well as the most extraordinary artist I have met. He designed several albums covers and has an eye that few can achieve. He has worked in Europe and is one of the best airbrush artists in the world. He lives up on the hill with his beautiful wife and 5 equally beautiful children from a year and a half to 13 years and their three orphaned kids, which they are raising. The young kids are only a few weeks old and are already pets, waging their tails and love getting their ears scratched. They have free run of the house and play with the children. If you don’t pay attention to them they jump up on their hind legs and get it. They obviously don’t know they are goats.
It hasn’t been easy since moving aboard, even with the kind help of others. To get on and off I must climb a ladder, there is no running water yet (tanks are empty), the toilets won’t work until launch next week, which I found out last night will be delayed a couple of days. There is no refrigeration as this requires the diesel and that can’t be ran until the boat is afloat. To go anywhere requires a ride with someone or a taxi. Road Town, by taxi is $18 one way. I now have the dinghy so I can go around the harbor in that as long as I take precautions not to get my cast wet. I have given up trying to get in and out of it with any kind of seafaring flare. As the saying goes “The difference between ordeal and adventure is attitude”.
It is going to be another OFF night, with no sea breezes the mosquitoes will be out in mass. Trying to stay dry with this heat and humidity is impossible. In fact being dry is so rare that you begin to not even notice it is raining, which is warm and of little help in providing relief and usually just makes it more humid. The weather man said it was going to be raining on and off the rest of the day.
It is not frowned upon by the islanders if someone decides to have themselves a chicken dinner, ya mon. They are everywhere and if you get hungry and need some sleep.........
Yesterday I took the ferry to Charlotte Amalie on St Thomas which is about 19 miles from here and a whole lot more people. Getting to the ferry required about 3/4 mile hike by crutch. I got there early so stopped in for breakfast of Johnny cake and fried chicken in a small shop. Everyone was very considerate. These big guys gave me a hand down off the ferry both ways and everyone went the extra step. While on St Thomas I got a mailbox and cell phone, but is blocked on the BVI’s by the local cell company, so I will be able to make and receive calls in The US Virgin Islands as well as receive mail and most importantly a place to have boat parts shipped. I hiked on over to Ace Hardware in scorching heat and humidity unable to get a taxi to stop. I did some shopping and finally flagged a taxi who was stopped at a gas station and cornered him into giving me a ride to the ferry docks. Like a lot of the people down here he has a son serving in the US Air Force in Germany. Many also have sons and daughters going to school up in the States. I have discovered during my time down here that they really love the United States. Many times I have been told “We going to be gettin’ back at dem Taliban Mon, dey is nuttin but pure evil, children of satan himself”. Once back here on Tortola I got to take the walk back to the boat and once there get some water up on the boat.
I can’t describe the frustration having the people here who can install my new autohelm and electronics, which includes a thru hull transponder which is going to require some changes to the original plan, like everything else these days “subject to change”. My contractor let me know via the yard manager, James, who is also an awesome wooden shipwright as well as yard manager. On launch day he drives the boat over to the crane on a special trailer where it is lifted into the air by large webbed straps and then swung out over the water and lowered into the water. Hopefully this will conclude any more contacts with land or rocks in an unplanned manner. I may just wait to install my electronics until next Summer when I am laying over for hurricane season and need something to do, or I may see about going into St Thomas and having it done there.
I am writing from the cockpit where there is some breeze blowing, helping to stay cool that way. Even the locals say it is really hot and humid so I am not being a little Nancy Boy about this. Tonight there is supposed to be the Leonid Meteor Shower in the direction of Leo. This is supposedly the best viewing spot and I plan on sleeping out on deck and watching for them. The night skies are really beautiful here,
Today I worked on some boat projects and feel like I am trying to get chaos organized. I got in my dinghy and drove over to the Jolly Roger down the bay past the ferry docks. From the dinghy dock I galloped down to the public phones that I had cards for at the ferry docks. Both cards only had a few minutes each on them which was promptly eaten by the phone. It then went dead on me and refused to take my change. Meaning I had gone all that way for nothing. I hiked back to the Jolly Roger, had lunch and headed across the bay to Pusser’s Rum factory store and bar. I was able to get a card and try again. This time it went thru and we got all the important details of when and where and how to’s taken care of for an upcoming visit by my friends Mac and Kim. From there I went under a small bridge to a small store with a little dock on the back to tie up to. I got some drinking water and a couple of cans of cold tonic water. I am getting better with the crutches, I am able to leap over mud holes after it rains here and speed bumps, which I use to give me a little boost in momentum.
My friend, Henry stopped by today and dropped off some groceries that were left on some charter boats, a large bag full of assorted food stuffs including coffee, a couple of six packs of beer. He tells me the boat will be a lot cooler in the water. Working for Moorings he has a lot of working knowledge of Beneteaus as well as where to get parts at cost or cheaper. He also knows the mechanics that maintained the boat originally while it was in charter service. I haven’t checked the diesel yet and I will be taking care of that before launch. I have checked the engine, not a thorough check, but was told this is a very healthy diesel according to the head mechanic at the charter service that she was maintained by. I must say I do envy Bruce’s deep bilge on Sail la Vie, lots of room, by comparison, to work on the engine. But from all opinions I have been able to gather concerning my boat from delivery skippers, Moorings employees, charter boat captains as well as James and Henry here at the yard, I have heard nothing but praise for this designs ease of handling, toughness and speed. They were built lighter but engineered to be tough, so they are faster and make quicker passages.
“We” finally got the new rudder bearings in yesterday. I talked to James about getting a flaring block made for a new transponder I am installing and he told me he would be by this morning to install it so that I have no more haul-outs for awhile. It is forward looking sonar which is really needed here where the water can get very “thin” quickly. It looks as though I won’t be launching until tomorrow due to circumstances beyond my control, or also known as “island time”. Island time bears many resemblances to “Manana” in Mexico, which many have confused with thinking it means tomorrow. What it really means is just not today.
James has come and gone and the new transponder is in place. He built a faring block out of teak and it is beautifully crafted, a real shame to have to paint anti-fouling paint all over it. Henry and Xavier invited me along with them lobster hunting. We went out where it is generally too rough in Drake’s Passage because of the normal prevailing winds, which have shifted, something they do only a few days each year. They found a cave full of lobsters and we took 8 of them home along with a couple of giant sea scallops, 2 huge Dungeness crabs and a couple of local fish very popular among the locals. We grilled 4 lobsters, 2 steaks, a pot of beans and feasted. They were very, very fresh and way beyond description, but let it be said my lips have touch immortality. Of course I had my cast wrapped in a plastic bag which sprung a leak and soaked it. We got drenched out in the channel and I can’t wait to be able to get in the water and not worry about it.
It is Thanksgiving and today we re-launch. If only I could take a nice dive off the transom but my cast would probably just get waterlogged and dragged me down to an untimely end. It is definitely cooler on the water. Most systems are testing out okay, the biggest problem is the water tanks, but I will get it all straightened out before departure. Robert, head mechanic for Tortola Marine Maintenance and who used to maintain this boat and knows her inside and out came by to help. He is going to go thru the diesel and show me how to change the oil as well as check it over. It ran for a couple hours and started right up. I must say our attitude has changed since we are back in the water. CHOICES has come back to life, and has movement onboard. I now have hot water, refrigeration and all the comforts of home, well maybe a freezer with ice and most important ice cream would be nice, but compared to the last few weeks, pure heaven. Mac and Kim arrive on St Thomas tonight too late to come over to Tortola on the ferry. I will meet them at the ferry docks in the morning, but now I am going to take the first hot shower I have had in many weeks, and my first aboard my new home.
I am resuming the writing of this letter the day after Mac’s departure back to California. It has been three weeks since leaving Tortola and a lot has happened. Of course Customs on Tortola was totally disinterested in making even the most casual of checks on my shipping containers. I could have opened them all and unpacked them while being laid up waiting to re-launch. In addition I could have installed my new electronics and boat equipment as well.
We took the boat out and sailed down Sir Francis Drake Passage and tied up to a mooring off Caneel Bay on St John Island. We spent the next couple of days there and left shortly after Kim flew back to California as she was only able to spend a week here. Sailing around the west end of St John we made for Coral Bay, next to Hurricane Hole on the south eastern side of the island, where we anchored. Like most of the small mooring or anchorages there is always a local bar which can best described as a place out of a Jimmy Buffet song. We took the bus over the top of the island to Cruz Bay, past the wild goats and donkeys that can be found everywhere.
I went to the hospital on St John to have my ankle re-examined but was told I would have to go to St Thomas as nobody there was qualified to do so. The advice I have been given by almost everyone is to go to St Thomas as the doctors and clinics on Tortola and St John are a “problem”.
I went into St Thomas the following week and was found to be mended well enough to remove the cast and start walking on the injured leg without crutches. You cannot imagine how good it felt to hear that. The leg is still somewhat sore, but it gets better with each passing day. The best part concerning that news took place the next morning when I was able to dive off the stern and finally enjoy the great waters. I have a fresh water rinse built into the swim step and took a bath in the Caribbean.
Lying once again off Caneel Bay Mac and I were able to go diving in the clear waters where we encountered rays, a spotted eel and many other species of fish by the thousands. Our problem seems to be our close approximation to Cruz Bay where there are a lot of great places to eat. Staying there it would be impossible for anyone not to gain weight.
It is the rainy season down here and has been raining on and off everyday. Just when it looks like it going to be clear, down comes another downpour. It is the only place I have stood in the rain with a clear sky overhead. It started raining last night and has been raining almost continuously since, which is another reason I am finishing the writing of this letter now.
Sailing across from St John we anchored in Benner Bay, near the east end of St Thomas around the corner from Red Hook for those of you who are familiar with the area. Going through the Bay I went aground. It is said there are two kinds of sailors: those that have gone aground and those that will. A depth sounder is an absolute necessity and the installation of my new sonar is a major priority. The boat is now in a small marina on St Thomas where I was able to get a slip. It is hard to find any available slips this time of year and I was lucky to get his one. It has all the facilities I will need to complete the installation of my new equipment and will probably be here for awhile. My plans are to sail the many islands in the Virgin Islands while here and become totally familiar with the boat. She continues to impress me with her speed and easy handling.
It is really coming down hard, my new home is still dry and there is still no sign of my lost baggage as of Dec 15th. To all I have sent this may you have a Great Christmas and a wonderful New Year.
Marv