My God! What a beautiful sunrise this morning! It is shaping up to be another beautiful day here in the Caribbean. The Trades are gently blowing and keeping the air temperatures cool and fresh. The beginning has always been my favorite time of the day. It is my routine each morning to enjoy a fresh, hot cup of Puerto Rican coffee out in the cockpit. None of that decaffeinated nonsense, this stuff will put hair on your saddlebags.
It has been a little over a week since I delivered my friend Tony to the airport and have been back in Puerto Rico working on my boat installing my RO water maker and 125 W solar panel. Figuring where to install the stuff is kinda limited and I had to relocate some pumps and plumbing to fit in the water maker. The solar panel will require me to make some modifications to my bimini cover with reinforcing it to support the new weight in all kind of conditions. I am now waiting on the parts needed to finish the work and VOILA! I am self sufficient, manufacturing my own fresh water and electricity using sun and solar. But , in emergencies, i.e. no sun or wind, I have a honda generator onboard.
For sailing here among the islands I have found keeping a week’s supplies on board is adequate as there are plenty of small open markets along the way that makes re-supply easy and fun. My 9.9 hp outboard is really performing well bringing the boat to a plane in many of the anchorages and never failed to start.. Tony and I had almost as much fun going exploring by dinghy as we did being under sail, under crystal clear skies filled with all manner of clouds making 8 knots, well almost. The biggest problem at present is getting the outboard back and forth from it’s storage rack on the boat and on the dinghy. Imagine loading a swinging 85 lb outboard on a boat that is rocking up and down, back and forth down to a dinghy that is doing the same thing, most of the time totally out of sync with the boat. Remember it is an expensive thing that is covered with all manner of swivels and breakable things and can be seriously damaged if it dips into sea water, which is usually 30 ft deep. Though I must add the water is crystal clear making it easily found. Those of you who have enjoyed this experience with me know exactly what I am describing. Now do it all in reverse when stowing it and the dinghy up in it’s davits. It makes a huge difference not towing the dinghy behind me for long passages where it can make a difference of a knot or more in speed. I tow it if the passage is going to be a short one, such as sailing around the Virgins, which are short ½ day sails usually.
It was a very hectic week before my guests arrived from Europe trying to get CHOICES back in the water and ready for their arrival as well as our planned cruise. To help aclimate them to the climate and time zone, we went up into the rainforest the day following their arrival where we went swimming under a tall waterfall. It is a favorite spot of mine, full of cascading water falls among large boulders, deep in the rainforest, deep, fresh, cool, clear water under the thick green forest canopy. Those of you who have been there with me know exactly where I am writing about.
That afternoon we went shopping for provisions and planned our suggested route. I say suggested because when cruising, weather and all kinds of other factors may require a change in venue. If there is one thing you learn while sailing it is to be flexible and adjust, the ocean is a constantly changing environment, never the same from one day to the next.
The next morning, under clear skies, we departed and made way to our first stop in a small bay, below the lighthouse on the small uninhabited island of Culbrita, located in the Spanish Virgins. We swam ashore and went walking along a deserted beach, as we were the only ones there, to a natural Jacuzzi located in among large boulders. It is identified on the charts as Montecito Primero. The water was crystal clear, warm and fed by the sea breaking over the rocks. Because it is relatively unknown it is what the Caribbean used to be, wild and empty. It is a wildlife preserve meaning it is uninhabited and totally devoid of any trace of man, except for an unmanned lighthouse, there are not any traces of roads either, not even a power pole. It is only a ½ day sail, under the right conditions, distance from the marina, making it an easily reached and empty anchorage, or if preferred, free mooring balls . For my friends who may be interested it is Lat 18 19.253N long 65 13.771W . The route followed close along the south shore of Culebra, past the reef I went aground on, When seen in daylight I could see how close I came to making it that night, didn’t miss by much. Won’t do it again.
The next morning we sailed past the north side of St. Thomas to Caneel Bay on St John in the USVI’s. We launched the dinghy and went into Cruz Bay where we had dinner at Uncle Joe’s, a small shack that has some of the best BBQ in the islands and later, after eating, bought a few more provisions. The next morning we let go the mooring and headed East, through the British Virgin Islands following Sir Francis Drake Channel, passing between Virgin Gorda and Ginger islands into open waters at sunset. That night the seas began building, driven by lightning storms which were lighting up the dark skies all around us. While Tony had the watch the boat was struck by lightning, and luck was on our side as no damage resulted. The next morning we made our way to our landfall St. Martin/San Maarten, which is in the French/Dutch West Indies. It is the only island in the Caribbean which is ruled by to two different governments. We made our way into Simpson Bay on the Dutch side, by way of a narrow channel, where we anchored and checked in. That afternoon we refueled, and though we had spent much of last night running the diesel against the head winds and had only burned 11 gals of fuel since my last fueling last Spring. After trying to catch up on our sleep lost on the previous night’s passage we took the dinghy across the lagoon to the French side. The French and Dutch West Indies is an example of how the Caribbean could be. They drive a lot smaller cars in general, but follow the island pattern of driving at very high speeds, then stopping in the middle of the road when they see their neighbor.
We enjoyed walking among the colonial style buildings and sidewalk cafes where we enjoyed a great meal, the first of many over the next week. Our biggest problem was translating, when doing so we had a habit of slipping into Spanish, when answering their questions spoken to us in French. No wonder they hate you Americans.
The main impression I walked away with from these islands is the sense of style and enjoyment of living that the French enjoy. When we checked into French customs in Gustav harbor on St Barth’s we found the officers could teach our own U.S. Customs and Homeland Security officers a lesson in manners and courtesy, especially on St John. I must exclude the Customs officers in Fajardo, here on Puerto Rico, who go out of their way to make your visit with them as painless as possible. Of course the first French officer I checked in with instantly recognized my last name as French. For all of you who may have wondered, all the French I met pronounced Benoit as Ben-wa, not Ben-oit or Be-know-it, etc.
Our next passage took us to St Barth’s another French island, located about 15 miles south. As in St Martin we enjoyed some awesome food and the island has some excellent restaurants. The weather forecast for the next week called for heavy seas and winds driven by a high front to the north which would mean an exciting passage back to Puerto Rico. The first of the excitement started when we untied from the mooring buoys in the small, crowded harbor. The winds had already picked up and when Tony pushed the engine control handle at the helm forward the engine failed to shift from reverse to forward, instead it just slipped into neutral and refused to respond leaving us now drifting towards the other boats in the harbor with no way to maneuver. Because we had fortunately decided to tow the dinghy back to St Martin we were able to quickly jump in it and tie unto a mooring buoy with some stern lines. Having passed within a few feet of some boats, heading towards some quays out of control can certainly be exciting. Tied securely in place we discovered the throttle cable had broken due to fatigue over time. Luckily a small ship chandlery had a new cable and once replaced we were able to get underway again, this time not quite so exciting. We returned to St Martin, our route following the island’s north shore through Anguilla channel where we anchored in a small bay sheltered under Pt Basse Terr for the night before going around the corner to Marigot, the French capitol, the next morning. That evening we departed on the first return leg back to Puerto Rico. The seas had really turned steep, driven by the forecasted winds when the autohelm decided to fail. The thought of spending the entire night in heavy seas at the wheel was not very appealing. Going below I found the motor drive working properly which met the problem was under the helm locker, which was full of stuff and would have to be cleared out in less than favorable conditions. Sure enough the drive unit had detached from the steering shaft of the rudder. Trying to describe crawling head first down into the locker on a boat that is making way heeled over in heavy seas would not be nearly as difficult as doing the actual task itself. Using seizing wire we were able to secure the drive unit back to the rudder and free ourselves from spending the night at the wheel. The biggest problem we encountered was sailing too fast, meaning we would be making landfall before sunrise, requiring us to bear off and wait till we had enough light. I get real itchy when nearing any landmasses, no matter how sure I am of my position in the dark. Even with the sails reduced we were consistently doing 8 ½ kts to 9 kts which is fast for a sailboat. That night on watch we saw at least 8 massive cruise ships, like bright cities in the distance, a line of them stretching from horizon to horizon, like some massive train. Bet none of them were having near as much fun as we were. The next morning, just after daybreak, just before sunrise we made the narrow passage between Virgin Gorda and Ginger island. We were unable to go ashore at The Baths due to a storm surge along it shores. So we decided to continue on and that night we dropped anchor in Great Bay of the island of Yost Van Dyke in the BVI's. We visited a small beachfront bar called the "Soggy Dollar" which is well known around here by the locals and enjoyed dinner ashore. The next morning we took the short sail back to St John, where we had to check back in with U.S. customs and once again tied up off Caneel Bay, where we enjoyed dinner on shore in the Caneel Bay resort. The next day we made our way to Charlotte Amalie where we anchored and spent the evening visiting with old friends at Bottoms-Up bar in Benner Bay. The following day found us in Ensenada Honda on Culebra. We spent a couple of days on the island where we enjoyed hiking around the island before heading back to Marina Puerto del Rey. It is my plan to return and spend some time there, anchored, as the village can provide me with everything I could need, including a great little waterfront saloon called the “Dinghy Dock” where you tie up your dinghy and enjoy the entertainment. One evening a bunch of Brits at the bar started singing. The best part was the great knowledge Tony was sharing with me. He showed me where the rocks were or of currents to be avoided, the best approaches and general local information. I learned a lot of valuable information as well as some great sailing in the company of a close friend and knowledgeable sailor to some very beautiful landfalls. We shared many laughs, great meals and rare time in the wild, with nature giving a small glimpse of it’s strength and beauty. That very few will ever have the opportunity to see, and among them fewer yet who do it.
The day after Tony’s departure was Thanksgiving. I received an invitation to enjoy dinner with them and friends up in the rainforest on an open deck with a view of the Caribbean and the Spanish Virgins off in the distance surrounded by trees covered in wild orchids. I had dinner a couple of days ago and spent the night there as none of thought it wise to drive. The next day I gave Jaymee some help with her computer and installed the lighting to her small booth at a gallery she is setting up. I will be house sitting and dog sitting for them while they are back in Denmark visiting her husband Pelle’s family. I have run of the house, use of their truck and his full workshop. I should be able to get a great many projects started and completed, or at least the parts made for installation later. She has a full studio overlooking the forest and hills across the valley and views of the ocean from where the sun rises each morning. I will also have use of their vehicle to get any materials I will need.
I have my sea legs back, things are healing, and as you have read, the boat is keeping me busy.
Hope this e-mail has found you in good health and doing what you love,
Marv
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